This month's Test Kitchen took its inspiration from the current exhibit "American Sabor: Latinos in U.S. Popular Music" and the San Francisco History Center's related exhibit "Locating Latino San Francisco." While there are plenty of cookbooks that feature Latin American dishes in the San Francisco History Center's stacks, we decided to choose one that focused on the culinary roots of some of our favorite dishes - such as the beloved Mission burrito.
Early California Hospitality: The Cookery Customs of Spanish California, with Authentic Recipes and Menus of the Period was originally published in 1938 by Ana Bégué de Packman, a descendant of one of the soldados who accompanied Padre Junipero Serra. "California foods of today," she writes, "are actually the native food of the western Indian, tastefully improved to satisfy the palate of the Spanish colonists" (p. 13).
The ever-so-delicious burrito was one of such foods. "In California de antes, the popular cry 'Burritos!' " she insists, "attracted the masses as does 'Hot dogs' today" (p. 38). Sounds familiar. She also claims that burritos sparked a "delirious happiness" in those who ate them and even transcribes a song that was once sung in their honor:
It seemed fitting that this month's Test Kitchen pay homage to these savory delights. From Early California Hospitality we chose a couple of basic recipes: "Frijoles (Pink Beans Fried)" (p. 48) and "Arroz de California de Antes (Fried Rice - Old California Style)" (p. 54). In addition, we brought a plethora of add-ons: salsa fresca, cheese, guacamole, fresh heirloom tomatoes, and sour cream. Our little donkeys were a delight indeed. ¡Que vivan!
The exhibit American Sabor: Latinos in U.S. Popular Music is on view in the Skylight Gallery on the 6th Floor of the Main Library now through November 13.
Locating Latino San Francisco is on view outside the San Francisco History Center on the 6th Floor of the Main Library now through December 2.
Orquestra La Moderna Tradición will be performing at the Mission Branch Library on October 1 at 2pm. Don't miss it!
Image from Early California Hospitality by Ana Bégué de Packman.
Courtesy San Francisco Public Library.
Courtesy San Francisco Public Library.
The ever-so-delicious burrito was one of such foods. "In California de antes, the popular cry 'Burritos!' " she insists, "attracted the masses as does 'Hot dogs' today" (p. 38). Sounds familiar. She also claims that burritos sparked a "delirious happiness" in those who ate them and even transcribes a song that was once sung in their honor:
Que vivan - que vivan
Los burritos para las bonitas!
Long live - long live
The little donkeys for the little beauties! (p. 38)
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| Photo: J. Thomas |
Locating Latino San Francisco is on view outside the San Francisco History Center on the 6th Floor of the Main Library now through December 2.
Orquestra La Moderna Tradición will be performing at the Mission Branch Library on October 1 at 2pm. Don't miss it!
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